Day 40: Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria - Dumbest Hike Ever

Veliko Tarnovo, from waaaaaaaaaay above.

Near Veliko Tarnovo is a tiny quaint village called Abernasi. My guide book says there's a lovely 6km hike to reach it, and that the views from Abernasi and quite charming. Sounds like a good activity, I thought. I looked outside before I headed out, and it was a nice sunny day, if not a bit too warm. No problem, I thought, I would be hiking in the shade and under trees. They would protect me from the mean sun thing. Off I went.

I found the trailhead easily enough. The first 3km were straight up hill. Worse, the shade does not serve to protect me from the sun. Instead, it serves as a natural humidifider, locking in all heat and moisture to all those stupid enough to venture through. That would be me, and only me, as I did not see another person on the trail. Whenever I would pop out into the open, the sun would glare at me and make me sweat more. Then I would re-enter the forested tunnels of doom and my sweat would have nowhere to go, so it decided to reproduce. I seriously think I formed little clouds above my head. 

By the time I reached the outskirts of Abernasi, I was absolutely drenched. For good reason, too. The thermometer on the wall said 36. Great weather to be insulating myself in. I sat down for 45 minutes to dry off because I was too embarrassed to walk through the village in that condition. 

Abernasi.

Upon arriving at Abernasi, I plopped myself down at a cafe that overlooked Veliko Tarnovo below. Lovely. A few hours later, I decided to wander the streets a bit and found myself outside the Nativity Church. It looked pretty non-descript, but my guidebook said it was the best site in the whole village. Not having much reason not to go in, I paid the 2 leva to take a look.

Inside the Nativity Church.

I've seen a lot of frescoes on this trip, but the Nativity Church wins for most frescoed thing ever. Literally ever square inch of the church, from floor to ceiling, was covered in frescoes. And it wasn't just one room like most churches. There were three sperate rooms completely covered with frescoes. If this thing were in Rome, or Paris, instead of Abernasi, it would cost 20 Euros to enter and would have a two hour long line. It's seriously that cool. 

I grabbed lunch at some local tavern. I saw "Rabbit Thrace style" and "Pork Rhodopi style" on the menu and asked the waiter what the difference was. He said the pork was lighter. Lighter! Now that's a word I haven't heard at a Bulgarian restaurant yet. I eagerly ordered the light pork. I received a clay pot with pork, sausage, cabbage, and a layer of cheese on top. I looked at the waiter in disbelief. "This is lighter?" I asked. He responded that the rabbit had two fried eggs in it, as well. I now know what lighter means in Bulgarian. It was, nevertheless, delicious as shit. 

After some more coffee at the same cafe with a view, I made the smartest decision of my life and took a taxi back to Veliko Tarnovo. Two Americans checked into my hostel room and we went out to a local music club, without the music, and hung out for a little bit. They were 22 years old and working in Ukraine. They peppered me with questions about when I knew it was right to return to the United States from the Marshall Islands. So old.